Contouring and Highlighting 101

The original way I wanted to format this post was with pictures of each step of contouring but A. My camera REFUSED to pick up the products on my skin and B. everyone has a different face shape and I thought maybe a detailed explanation would be better after all so I will make my best attempt for pictures of the application process (I'm so sorry guys). CONTOURING (a better name would be shadowing.. you are creating a shadow) makes features of the face/body appear more recessed than they actually are, where as HIGHLIGHTING brings features forward and emphasizes them. Contouring and highlighting is essential because foundation, while being awesome and evening out our skin, really makes a blank canvas and can erase our face's features and make them look flat. Contouring and highlighting brings depth back to the skin. Think of contouring and highlighting as like dramatic foils (literary term pop quiz haha).. they bring out each other's differences! Keep in mind that contouring is not something people master overnight it takes a lot of practice! I've been working at it for about a year now! Let the post begin!  

*you can contour with different colored foundations but this post will be the more common (in my opinion) way of contouring which is using additional colored cosmetics on top of your face base but if you'd like a post with foundation contouring let me know because I am familiar with it*

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First I will detail every product I use in contouring and what their use is really for:

- Concealer (liquid or cream would work best): a shade of concealer lighter than your skin tone will be applied under the eye in an inverted triangle shape, down the bridge of the nose, chin, Cupid's bow, the tops of cheekbones, and center of the forehead. Using concealer in these areas is a highlighting step. Recommendations: I enjoy a liquid concealer for this step (blendability, coverage) and use my NYX HD Photogenic concealer. I prefer using fingers for concealer.

- Matte Bronzer (powder or cream): apply below cheekbones to jawline, on temples, and the hair line, beneath the chin and down the neck.... a very common mistake with a matte Bronzer I see is using it to contour with. Bronzer is meant to be used to perk up and bring color to the complexion which is why they tend to have a warm orange/red tones. If you use a matte bronzer to contour and, essentially, add shadows to the face it will look very fake because a shadow is cool in its tone. Matte bronzers look most natural compared to ones with shimmer. I find that bronzers help transition to the contour powder that will be in the same area on the face. Recommendations: There are plenty of matte bronzers in the drugstore like NYX Matte Bronzer and NYC "Sunny". Brush: Real techniques Powder Brush for a light and diffused application.

- Contour shade (powder or cream): apply right beneath your cheekbones in their "hollows" (DO NOT BRING THE CONTOUR CLOSE TO THE MOUTH. GO FROM EAR TO CORNER OF EYE), in the center of the temples, on the sides of the nose (want another post on nose contouring specifically??), below the bottom lip (makes lips and chin stand out more) you are essentially placing this EXACTLY where you want the shadow (where as the bronzer was to prep for this step and make it look less drastic and fake by giving a transition for your skin into a deeper tone). For example, I bronze my cheeks in the hollows and below to the jawline but only place the contour in the hollows. This is the most crucial and hard to find product. Find a cool-toned shade that will really mimic the appearance of a shadow. Recommendations: my holy grail contour shade is a powder blush from NYX in the shade "Taupe" it is seriously incredible. In Milani's Bronzer XL duos the darker shade in the "Fake Tan" compact is a cooler toned shade fab for contouring. Brush: Real Techniques Contour brush for a targeted area of application.

Here's a swatch to compare what a bronzer would look like and a contour shade..

Left is NYX Matte Bronzer in "Light and the right is their powder blush in "Taupe":

- Blush: I find adding blush at the end of all these steps really brings life and color back into the face because contouring and highlighting is supposed to change the structure of the face instead of perk it up. Brush: e.l.f Blush brush for a forgiving application and blending process.

- Highlight powder: either a shimmering or matte powder that is applied in the same areas as the concealer that was used to highlight to set those areas or even after setting it to add more lift and emphasis. Recommendation: I really enjoy WetnWild's Color Icon Bronzer in "Reserve Your Cabana", Laura Geller's Baked Highlighter in "French Vanilla". Brush: e.l.f Blush brush gives a targeted application yet allows you to use its side to pat in the powder and set your work.

*When working with creams instead of powders I really enjoy e.l.f's Small Stipple brush.*
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Now, I'm going to outline the order in which I apply these products on a day I would want to contour and highlight.

1. Face primer

2. Foundation

3. Concealer, not the concealer you will use to highlight, but a concealer to cover circles and other imperfections because a highlighting concealer will merely emphasize these. After, use highlighting concealer and put it in areas you'd like to highlight.

4. Cream Bronzer, I like using both forms of Bronzer.. (Cream and then set with a powder Bronzer)

5. Set areas of cream Bronzer with a matte powder Bronzer/translucent finishing powder.
*Using both forms of bronzer adds emphasis, but one bronzer will do the job.. adjust these two steps to what you plan on using*

6. Set highlighting concealer with a highlight powder or a finishing powder.

7. If your whole face hasn't been set then set those areas with a translucent finishing powder so the shade of the base/foundation you used is not altered to be a highlight or a contour zone.

8. Add blush to balance and perk up the face.
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Some parts of this can be confusing so leave your questions below or on my Instagram (@makeupbyemilyy). I'd be glad to answer your questions and let me know if you would like a separate post on nose contouring or any other posts regarding a single topic in-depth like this one (blending shadows, maybe even applying blush)!

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